Publication: Godey's Lady's Book
Date: July, 1872
Louis A. GodeyTitle: CHITCHAT ON FASHIONS FOR JULY
Location: Philadelphia, Pennsylvania
CHITCHAT
ON FASHIONS FOR JULY.
IN mourning goods there are no new goods to record, but those goods most worn are made better; there is more flexibility in
their texture, and they are made lighter, which makes them much pleasanter for summer wear. Bombazine, Henrietta cloth, and
tamise are the goods chosen for deepest mourning, with English crape or folds of the same for trimming. These goods are mostly
used for street wear all summer, a polonaise of these goods being quite as cool as a grenadine one made over silk. Among the
thin goods not worn for the deepest mourning the striped grenadines worn by ladies in colors are used to give variety to mourning
costumes. The inch-wide stripe is the most popular, and are alternately thick and thin, as if made of satin and grenadine.
The entire costume may be striped, but the present fancy is to have the skirt of the plain goods, with striped ruffles and
polonaise. A novelty for fancy mourning is a grenadine with damask figures. This is meant for polonaise only, and they are
also worn by ladies in colors as well as mourning. Plain grenadine is worn for deep mourning; they are trimmed with folds
of crape, or they as well as thicker goods are entirely covered with crape, giving the suit or dress the appearance of being
made entirely of crape, it being sewed into the seams with the dress material.
For morning dresses even stripes of black and white percale, lawn, or cambric are chosen. They are made of box-plaited blouse,
overskirt, and skirt of walking length. Polka dotted cambrics are made into Dolly Varden polonaises, and trimmed with bands
of solid black percale, and worn over a black underskirt.
Morning wrappers are in the flowing Watteau style, made of white Victoria lawn, and worn with jet jewelry. Suits of white
Victoria lawn, trimmed with side plaitings, are also worn in the house by ladies in the deepest mourning.
The mourning stores no longer offer gray and purple goods for second mourning. Instead of these, either black and white stripes
are used, or else plain black goods trimmed with the new jet trimmings, and white laces are worn with them. This style of
dress is so similar to the style of dressing most generally adopted that it needs no special description.
Crape collars are but little worn. White tarlatane ruches or frills, box-plaited and standing around the neck, are being worn,
even by widows. The same frills are worn around the sleeves. Plain linen cambric collars, hemmed, are used for general wear.
Scarcely any jewelry is worn in deep mourning— simply a brooch of massive jet to fasten the collar, and a watch-chain of small
jet beads is passed around the neck. For lighter mourning jet, onyx set in gold, and tortoise-shell are worn.
Bonnets for first mourning are of English crape, laid plainly on the frame. These are worn both summer and winter. The widow's
veil is two yards long, with a hem three-eighths of a yard deep; this is tied on the bonnet. The ruche or cap is of white
tarlatane, the strings of crape, except for old ladies, who still wear the bow of tarlatane. For lighter mourning fancy tulle,
net, or silk bonnets are worn, with a little jet ornament if desired. With such bonnets the veil is of net.
Grenadine, with large checks or squares, are a novelty of the season, but we cannot say that we admire them; these large checks
never, in our eyes, make becoming or satisfactory dresses. We think the stripes prettier, and they, as we before stated, are
equally fashionable. The texture of some of these silk grenadines is exceedingly coarse— more like canvas than a dress material;
but they have the advantage of draping exceedingly well— that is, of falling into graceful folds. In black, with small bouquets
of tiny pink, blue, and cerise flowers, in shades we see on old porcelain; they make up into exquisite toilets.
Another very popular material is Indian
The newest summer silks and thin dress goods are made with four deep flounces reaching to the belt in the back, while the
front has a long, narrow apron. This is seen on some of the handsomest French dresses, and entirely dispenses with an overskirt,
except the apron front.
The pretty
Sleeveless basques of white muslin, with an overskirt to match, are worn for afternoon dresses at watering-places, over silks
of solid colors. Swiss muslin polonaises are also worn, with or without sleeves. Those of Parisian make are fashioned of stripes
an inch wide, alternately of insertion and muslin, and the garment is edged with lace. A Swiss muslin dress for a watering-place
is worthy of description. The skirt has a twelve-inch flounce, richly needle-worked, headed by two puffs, each five inches
wide. These puffs are separated by Swiss insertion, laid over blue ribbon. The front of the polonaise is formed entirely of
strips of insertion and muslin; the back forms a large
The handsomest
Flax-gray and
Loose sacques are very popular, and are slightly longer than last year, and have wide open sleeves. They are principally made
of llama lace, as they are more within the reach of all. Some of the designs are so handsome that the most fastidious ladies,
who once scorned Ilama, wear them. A novelty is a cashmere colored border, wrought in llama sacque— a rich Oriental fashion,
but not to our taste. Guipure sacques are especial objects of desire, and are very beautiful. The lower priced ones, costing
$60, are made of guipure net, insertion, and lace, sewed together. The handsomest ones are hand-made (that is, wrought in
shape) and cost $150. Black net, both plain and with a Spanish figure, is used for a variety of outer garments this summer,
such as
Instead of the regular neckties, we now have the cravat bow of Valenciennes or Swiss muslin, or else China crape in colors.
These finish the standing frills of lace or muslin. Neckties of bias white twilled silk are, however, considered stylish;
but are becoming only to very fresh complexions.
Sprays of flowers arranged in the form of a fan are very fashionable at the sides of evening dresses, and they are more particularly
worn with black tulle, studded with gold stars. Spanish blondes and cambria laces, embroidered with gold thread, are used
for trimming these starred tulles with good effect. They look better and more novel in black than white, and are particularly
becoming to brunettes. Dresses for small evening parties are much trimmed with white and buff guipure lace, embroidered with
colored silks.
A pretty model for a
Curls are getting longer every day for evening toilets; they reach almost down to the waist. Some day, if fashion goes on
at the same rate, some of our ladies will wear them as long as the Japanese court ladies, and sweep the floor with exuberant
wigs. Let us hope they will not complete the imitation by shaving off their eyebrows and painting others half way up the forehead.
The hair is also worn in twisted torsades, from beneath which curls escape and fall on the neck. Another mode consists of
twists worn in place of the plaits. The frizzette, though still worn, is less marked, and decidedly smaller, and most ladies
are more reticent on the subject of additional hair than they have been lately. A curled chignon which has a very natural
appearance is arranged on a tortoise-shell comb with ornamental top. The front hair is worn high, in Russian bandeaux; but
with the curled chignon it is also worn in curls low down on the forehead. These curls are divided from those at the back
by a band of coral, pearl, gold, or jet, or a ribbon with a coquettish bow placed on one side. The very becoming Alsatian
bow is much worn for demi-toilets. It is a black velvet butterfly bow, lined with a color which sets off the complexion and
gives brilliancy to the eyes. There is no complexion but looks the fresher under it, and no eyes which do not sparkle brighter
for it.
We see little if any difference in the shape of bonnets and hats; the two are so similar in shape that a pair of strings transform
a round hat into a bonnet. An elastic band back of the chignon is necessary to bonnets with strings, to prevent them coming
too far forward on the head. Much jet, in leaves, wings, and buckles, formed of small beads thickly set together, are worn
by ladies of fashion. Thick veined geranium leaves and those of begonia are the most fashionable floral trimmings, although
all kinds are worn. Turquoise silk, a soft repped silk, is very much used for trimming straw hats and bonnets. The Dolly Varden
flat, with an ear cluster of rosebuds under the brim and another above the forehead is popular. To be well worn it must be
placed quite back on the head, as bonnets now are, leaving most of the forehead visible.
Muslin capulets are worn this summer. They are square, trimmed round with deep lace, and are to veil wreaths of pink blossoms.
The elderly are to have less virginal capulets; but still capulets they mean to have, of black lace over autumnal flowers
and fruit garlands — clusters of grapes, cherries, and blackberries, and all that the hedge-row offers. Some ladies contend
this new style will be warmer than bonnets, and suggest this as an excuse for adopting it. If care is not taken, this sudden
desire to have a warm head in summer will produce brain fever. Garden hats are made of muslin for both ladies and children.
There is a novelty in fans; they show the word "Roma" when held up for the plain purpose of fanning; but by a clever turn
of the hand the word suddenly turns into "Amor," which is "Roma" read backwards. Young ladies turn the orthodox side to papa
when he happens to look their way, and the other side speaks volumes in a totally opposite direction. Of the nature of the
language and the direction to which it is directed we leave our readers to guess.
Before closing we must not neglect speaking of the floral jewelry, manufactured by Rogers & Fox, 39 North Charles Street,
Baltimore, Md. This jewelry is especially adapted to the summer season, and is made in many different varieties, and of all
kinds of flowers, each prettier than the other, and making the task of selection a very difficult one. These sets form a charming
ornament for the gayeties of the watering places and summer resorts, as well as for more quiet home wear. We advise our readers
to purchase this great addition to a summer toilet and decide for themselves on the beauty of the styles, which we do not
feel we can do justice to in a short notice.
FASHION.