Publication: Godey's Lady's Book
Date: August, 1880
Louis A. GodeyTitle: HINTS UPON THE DOINGS OF THE FASHIONABLE WORLD
Location: Philadelphia, Pennsylvania
HINTS UPON THE DOINGS OF THE FASHIONABLE WORLD.
With the warm sun of August upon us, it is hardly the season to advocate anything very novel in the way of outdoor amusement;
but a lady who desired something attractive and new in the way of an entertainment has proved herself an adventurous spirit,
and has struck out in a new line, and with success too, the date chosen being, for a wonder, a fine day. We confess that when
we received the invitation, we marveled greatly whether anyone would have the courage to accept and carry it out, though as
we read the wording of the card and found that a fancy-dress picnic was the programme, a flood of pretty pictures came before
us. We had long known the spot selected: a valley in the midst of hills; a river with much boating near at hand, and fine
foliage everywhere. We could see in our minds eye the very bank where Sir Philip Sydney might recline, and look at least as
if he were composing a sonnet, Queen Elizabeth not far distant conversing with Essex, a group of Watteau beauties disappearing
in the distance, and Louis XVI.'s luckless wife and her train playing at rusticity round about the rural cottage, the only
building in sight, which might have formed a part of the Trianon village, where the poor young queen loved to throw off the
splendor and formality of court etiquette. This picnic took place miles away from the city; the hurry and turmoil with heat
and dust were left behind us, the invitation was a long one, and the privilege given of choosing any period, or the costume
of any country; but all the guests were compelled to adopt fancy dresses or remain away. With all the beautiful cotton fabrics
that this season has produced, it was an easy matter for ladies to reproduce costumes in wash goods that of an evening would
have to be made of silk, brocade, velvet, or satin. Marie Antoinette and her surroundings at the Trianon were represented
by a party who were all friends; Watteau peasants and Dolly Varden costumes were most popular. The gentlemen did not find
their costumes quite as easy to arrange. We had no opportunity to judge whether Sir Philip Sidney looked in a poetic or contemplative
mood. We know that he was a brave soldier, and, for his day, a great traveler, as well as a poet; a man who during absence
from the life of court and camp, loved the country well, and must accordingly have often adopted the dress suitable for the
rough wear of the country; but hitherto, in fancy costume, he has been represented in velvet and satins, and no one had been
brave enough to introduce him in the serviceable cloth suit with breeches to the knee, and hanging sleeves depending from
the elbow, over tight under ones, such as men wore in every-day life during Tudor times, the hat flat on the crown and broad
in the brim. Watteau shepherds, and velvet coated gallants, who found favor with the belles of Ranelagh and Vauxhall, had
many representatives. They abjured gold embroidery and braiding on their coats as unsuitable to daylight, but long-skirted
mulberry coats over long waistcoats, breeches, worsted stockings, and shoes, were quite the fashion, and also the Puritan
garb. Almost any national costume proved a success, and two gentlemen and two ladies adopted the Tyrolese garb, and, better
still, sang Tyrolese songs, in the intervals of dancing on the grass and walks in the neighboring woods. A supremely graceful
dress of the Vandyke period was of pale blue satteen. The skirt devoid of any trimming, but made with a train, and put rather
full into the waist, the abundance of its folds being pressed down by the long peaked stomacher of the square-cut bodice,
which should fit closely to the figure, and be clasped down the front with jeweled aigrettes. The sleeves were made very full,
long, and wide, and looped and caught up with jewels or ribbon bows so as to leave the elbows bare. The hair worn in loose
curls behind, and either drawn from off the forehead in front; or, if the wearer has a fringe, it should be very slightly
curled so as to make it wave in one soft curve over the forehead. The fan, a feather screen, the same color as the dress.
Another pretty dress was a Gainsborough of cream Indian muslin; square bodice, elbow sleeves, with lace ruffles, and round
skirt, with four or five narrow flounces at the hem. A sash of wide dark green ribbon round the waist, tied in a bow at the
back; a knot of dark green velvet at the corner of the square of the bodice, and another bow in the powdered hair; white
